Balinska’s book chronicles the myths, facts and cross-cultural history of the beloved bagel from its roots in Poland to its mainstream presence in America. A link about Balinska and her book can be found here.
But this post is not going about the bagel Q &A. No, no dear reader. This post is about my bumbling introduction to an iconic New York City food legend who randomly chose the empty seat next to me.
An older gentleman, probably in his sixties, with a kind face and big smile left his backpack on the seat next to me and headed up front to greet and hug Maria Balinska and Ed Levine. When the gentleman returned to the seat next to me, I entered into “insert-foot-into-mouth” territory which I will gladly recount for you in all of its embarrassing glory.
Keep in mind the whole dialog between him and I was very friendly and the gentleman was extremely gracious. I’m paraphrasing our larger conversation below.
Me: So how do you know Ed? (Said as if I’m on a first name basis with him)
MF: I know Ed because I’m in the food world. How do you know Ed?
Me: I cover food events. I don’t know Ed personally, but I know him from going to various events.
MF: So you’re a food writer or blogger for Ed?
Me: No, I’m a food blogger on my own for my website.
We bonded for the next few minutes since he had stopped practicing law to start working with lox and I’m currently trying to get out of legal services and into the food industry.
But I missed that vital clue that he gave me because he then asked --
MF: You’re not originally from New York are you?
Me: No......but I’m not trying to be.
He chuckles at my remark, says “that’s a good thing,” and I start getting get this feeling that I’m supposed to know this man....pangs of dread begin knotting my stomach.
The woman sitting across the aisle leans over and says to the man, “I love your lox and I was just at your store getting some dried fruit.”
Then it hits me.
Lox and dried fruit. Lox and dried fruit.
Oh no...... I feel a big Homer Simpson “D’oh” moment coming on as I realize the man I’ve been chatting with about lox and life is a legend.
I blurt out with astonishment and uncertainty, “Russ & Daughters?”
He beams, extends his hand and says “Mark Russ, pleased to meet you.”
As we shake hands, my face turns five shades of red.
Am I a schmuck or what?
(l.)- (r.) Joshua Russ Tupper, Mark and Niki Russ Federman stand in front
of their family-owned restaurant, Russ & Daughters Appetizers. (NY Daily News)
This funny, unassuming man is Mark Russ Federman, former owner of Russ & Daughters, a cultural landmark in the Lower East Side. Known for smoked fish, caviar, bagels, bialys, dried fruit, babka, and other specialty foods, Russ & Daughters has survived as a family run operation for almost 100 years.
Turns out, Mark is in the early stages of writing his own book on the history of bagels and lox, which certainly will be steeped in his rich family history.
I intended to ask Mark if he would grant me a brief interview sometime, but when the event concluded, audience members flocked to him to tell their fond memories about his family’s store. I suspect this happens to Mark frequently and he is genuinely appreciative to hear such praise about his family’s work.
Unfortunately, I couldn’t figure out a way to ask for an interview without interrupting his rock star moment. So I decided it was best to let it go and not make another ass out of myself.
I touched Mark on the arm, and wished him good luck on the book. He grinned and replied, “good luck with your life.”
For more info about Russ & Daughters (including their family history) click here.
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